Cruising through Turkey – Turgutreis to Bozuk Buku — August 25, 2015

Cruising through Turkey – Turgutreis to Bozuk Buku

Sun 11/08/15

11:40

Departed Turgutreis looking for somewhere to go. Plenty were showing up on the charts but when we got there, they were full of boats not showing up on AIS or Turkish Gullets.

Because the hills and mountains run straight into the water and the little bays are so small, you don’t anchor and drift around. The idea is to run a long line ashore, either by dinghy or swimmer, and fasten it to a tree or rock and then pull back on your anchor. We haven’t tried it yet and only being 2-up makes it a bit harder so the idea is to find somewhere else.

So after searching for a few hours and wondering what we will do, we came across an inlet with a small village called Cokertme that had 3 restaurants with a jetty and ‘boat captains’ who came out to grab you. Ahhh… this is better.

The next day the ‘boat captain’ wanted to use another bow line and got me to use the bowthruster to push us across – unfortunately a loose line fouled the bowthruster prop and jammed. He went diving in to survey what had happened and came back with the prop, and 3 nylon screws that he couldn’t get back in. β€œNo Problem” is the standard phrase in Turkey and apparently this was the case here. He said the next day he would go to Oren and source new nylon screws. So the next day he comes back with the screws but the plastic bush is out of shape and wouldn’t fit on – so off he goes with it, brings it back the next day and it all fits together. I thanked him with 20 Turkish Lira πŸ™‚

Thur 20/08/15

Headed up to the east end to Gokova or Akayaka and on the way passed about 12 Gullets heading west, possible to Bodrum returning for the weekend. We had a nice leisurely sail up, no stress. We anchored off shore expecting to see the village described in the pilot guide but there were people everywhere in the water and on the beach. Add to that about 50 kite surfers in the southern bay. There were palm trees, lounges and restaurants all along the foreshore. The water was very refreshing and we had a few swims, slept well after the music finished and woke up to people in the water again before 8:00am.

The idea was to head back somewhere else but then we heard from our broker in Gocek saying he would be away when we got there so he arranged to meet us back at Akayaka so we turned away and headed back after 2 Β½ hours. Had a pleasant dinner with Riza and told him about all our issues with his service people and he said he would investigate.

Sat 22/08/15

Departed Akayaka for Korum on the southern side of the bay but then the wind came up ON THE NOSE AGAIN and we had to motor into 2m seas. Read that Korum was a dangerous harbour getting into in those conditions so headed back to Cokertme for the evening with a plan to leave early next morning.

Sun 23/08/15

What a day this turned out to be. The plan was to anchor in Knidos or the little bay next to it so off we went having a great sail, keeping to the north sheltered by land before heading south out from Kos. Everything was going to plan and really enjoying the sail when I noticed a big power boat 2nm away heading down on a course that would get him very close to us. Keeping an eye on it, it just kept coming so I started our motor ready to take evasive action as it was only 100 metres away at this stage and looking to ram.Just then another head popped up on the bridge and they immediately swerved to port 60m behind us. Their chartplotter either sent out a belated warning of the skipper finally came back on deck to check on the kid up there. Ignorant shits!!!

The wind has been up and down mainly because we were in the lee of Kos but knew it would be freshening. When we rounded to corner and looked into Knidos, the place was full of gullets as were all the possible harbours on the way east. By this time the wind (Meltemi) had built to be consistently around 30 knots. We can handle that ok but the issue was finding a place to moor for the night.

Decided to head straight to Datca and as we headed north into the gulf, the wind really hit. Consistently over 30 knots and the highest was 37.1 knots and howling. Made it to the north harbour and dropped anchor in 7 metres of water but laid out 70 metres of chain – we didn’t want to move. Stayed up until 12:30 am trying to watch movies over the howling of the wind which didn’t let up. Decided we looked in good shape so went to bed listening to the wind and feeling the boat swing in the gusts. The next day, it had dropped off enough to launch the dinghy and go ashore for a look around before heading back to the boat ready for the 25 knot winds forecast.

Tues 25/08/15

Departed Datca for Bozuk Buku passing with 2 miles of the Greek island of Simi along the way. Sailed all the way and tied up in a berth in front of a restaurant at 14:15 and chilled with a beer before all the other boats arrived.

Tomorrow will be our last chance to sail where we will have to cover about 50 miles back to Gocek and the end of the trip 😦

Sunrise with our back to Datca
Sunrise with our back to Datca
Wind was only blowing 23 knots here but doesn't show up well
Wind was only blowing 23 knots here but doesn’t show up well
Only Italians have the style for these - even in Turkey
Only Italians have the style for these – even in Turkey
Typical Turkish Gullet near Knidos
Typical Turkish Gullet near Knidos
Cokertme restaurant and jetty
Cokertme restaurant and jetty
Wedding on the beach at Akayaka
Wedding on the beach at Akayaka
Beach on Akayaka
Beach on Akayaka
Beach at Akayaka and people in the water
Beach at Akayaka and people in the water
Vantage spots everywhere
Vantage spots everywhere
Knidos Lighthouse
Knidos Lighthouse

Tues 25/08/15

Departed Datca for Bozuk Buku passing with 2 miles of the Greek island of Simi along the way. Sailed all the way and tied up in a berth in front of a restaurant at 14:15 and chilled with a beer before all the other boats arrived.

Tomorrow will be our last chance to sail where we will have to cover about 50 miles back to Gocek and the end of the trip 😦

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Leros to Kos in Greece to Turgutries Turkey — August 17, 2015

Leros to Kos in Greece to Turgutries Turkey

02/08/15

After the night of Greek music and dancing, and while we were waiting for Monday and an electrician to look at our inverter, Sarah, Adam and Rylee said they were going to spend a few days in a hotel so off they went.

A little while later, we got a call β€œHave booked you two a room so grab a bag and get here!! So this was going to be somewhere to celebrate Sarah’s birthday.

Off we went to the Nefeli Hotel, near the Agia Marina on the east coast of Leros. This is a really delightful spot. We had dinner on the beach with the waves literally lapping at our feet. Happy Birthday Sarah.

Back to the hotel and the next day I went back to the yacht to meet the technician – he confirmed a blown fuse but was unable to find a 125a fuse anywhere on the island and it will have to come from Athens so back to Nefeli and we will stay another night – what a bugger. Had a great meal at Milos beside an old windmill and then walked through town. As we went past the police station, saw about 30 people inside and 50 or more women and children outside – refugees being prosessed.

Wed 05/08/15

Jennifer and I, departed Lakki for Xirokampos and will catch up with catch up in a few days. This little trip only took 2 Β½ hours and the bonus was we found a fender floating off the coast – this is now attached to our port rail.

What a great little bay and after anchoring we got in the dinghy and went ashore for dinner. Swims and dinner the next night but when we got to the boat I noticed a drop in the barometer and the wind picked up, I was feeling uneasy so we pulled up the swim ladder and the dinghy and decided to have a quiet little drink in the cockpit.

Well all of a sudden we could see lightening over the hills and the wind kept building. Jennifer said we were drifting in spite of the anchor so I went to try and start the motor – nothing!! Kept on trying and even tried jumpering across in case it was the battery but still only a whirrrrrr. By this stage we had drifted over Β½ a mile heading for an anchored motor boat and past them cliffs. They started yelling, Jennifer was yelling back β€œWe have no motor” and then we nudged them on the bow but our solar arch caught the pulpit and bent it. Panic stations had set in as now we were drifting down towards rocks, wind blowing 25-30knots and no motor.

Different scenarios were running through our heads wondering what we can do, when magically the starter motor spun over and the motor kicked into life. We were able to motor up closer to the head of the bay drop anchor and ride out the night. It turns out the sand was hard and new weed was taking over the harbour and so even though we dropped the anchor in sand, with the wind coming side on it dragged us around into the weed.

Next day, I got the local mechanic to come done and replace another snapped alternator bracket and check on the starter motor – it would not turn over. Gone! Broken! Died! How lucky were we to get one last kick out of it.

Sarah, Adam & Rylee arrived the next day (Fri) but decided to surprise Adam’s dad in Paris so they all left on Monday morning. The mechanic (Vasilis) said seeing it was a weekend, the parts would have to be sourced in Athens and as we couldn’t use our toilets for more than two days, decided a Hotel was the best answer so we booked in for a couple of nights before the part arrived, was fitted and worked 1st and every time.

Wed 12/08/15

09:00 Departed Xirokampos for Kos

Just the two of us onboard now and we sailed for an hour before having to motor into the Kos Marina at 15:30.

Checked out a bit of the town and saw hundreds of refugees camping and just sitting and lying on the foreshore and main street. Found out the next day there had been a riot just before we got there.

Kos didn’t impress all that much but we did visit the fort and Hippocrates Tree. Maybe it was because of all the refugees, and the smell. Didn’t go near the water to swim.

Fri 14/08/15

Completed Passport Control and Port Police as this was our 90th day in Shengen and had to leave.

Departed 14:30 and arrived at D-Marin Turgutries in Turkey amidst a flotilla of charter boats – welcome to Turkey.

Stayed here a couple of nights to look around before leaving for somewhere else in the big bay just past Bodrum

Nefeli Hotel apartments
Nefeli Hotel apartments
Verve for Sarah's birthday
Verve for Sarah’s birthday
Dinner on the beach
Dinner on the beach
Birthday celebrations at Nefeli Hotel
Birthday celebrations at Nefeli Hotel
Happy Birthday Sarah
Happy Birthday Sarah
Leaving Lakki Leros
Leaving Lakki Leros
Mary of the Crabs Church at Xirokampos Leros
Mary of the Crabs Church at Xirokampos Leros
Hmmm - clouds coming in to Xirokampos Leros
Hmmm – clouds coming in to Xirokampos Leros
Refugees at Kos
Refugees at Kos
Stuck making an ass of myself at fort at Kos
Stuck making an ass of myself at fort at Kos
Old fort at Kos
Old fort at Kos
Hippocrates tree at Kos
Hippocrates Tree at Kos
Turkish flag and cite name at Turgutreis
Turkish flag and city name at Turgutreis
Turgutreis Turkey
Turgutreis Turkey
Cruising Catch Up – Lipari Italy to Leros Greece — August 3, 2015

Cruising Catch Up – Lipari Italy to Leros Greece

Ok – this will be a catch up as we have not had a lot of mobile internet coverage over the last couple of weeks.

Sat 18/07/15

Fuelled up at the bunker at Lipari (240l = 350euro) on our way to Greece. Sailed down the Messina Strait and saw several swordfish boats fishing in the classical way with a high crows nest for the spotter to find the fish.

Had good sailing for periods and then more motoring – unbelievable.

19/07/15

01:00 Leaving Italy behind us 😦

Had a couple of bites on Adam’s fishing rig but they snapped off. Adam saw one jump out of the water before it snapped the line.

20/07/15

18:00 – Anchored at Apostoli on the island of Kefalonia back in Greece. Couldn’t tie up on the harbour so at anchor which is OK. That leg was 296 NM

Went for a walk and lunch the next morning and saw 5 turtles hanging around the harbour boats getting fed small fish by the fishing boats coming in.

21/07/15

Departed Apostoli for Galaxdhi and were buzzed by 2 Greek fighter jets!! Wind was 15knots and would have been great for sailing but, unbelievably, it was right on the nose again!!!! Didn’t mother nature know this time of the year it blows from the west not the east.

Some idiot fishing boat crossed our bow by about 30 metres while we were motoring doing 6 knots before Adam yelled out they were dragging a buoy 100 meters behind them so we had to throttle back and swing to starboard – these guys in motor boats are cretins and do I have a lot of stories to tell those stink boat lovers back home.

22/07/15

09:00 – Berthed in Galaxdhi with a croswind but did OK.

Decided to do some more touring so the next day we hired a taxi to take us to Delphi which is an amazing place. We didn’t walk all the way through it as it was 38C in the sun and it knocked us all around. Went for a stroll through the musuem where it was air-conditioned before the 30 min taxi ride home.

24/07/15

08:15 – Departed Galaxdhi for the Corinth Canal and the eastern side and the Agean. Wind was on the nose of course so more motoring and what was worse, our chartplotter lost our track and our voyage track has been erased. Very very upset.

We had to wait about an hour to enter the canal to let a build up of boats get through west to east first.

Plan was to head to Mykonos but seeing how bad the wind was, headed to Nisson Aegina, the island which has the town of Marathon!!

Arrived in Aegina 20:30 and anchored in the small harbour. There was a party or festival happening most of the night with below average singing and playing until a couple of guys started singing in the early hours of the morning.

25/07/15

06:30 Departed Aegina for Mykinos but decided to head for Finikas on the western side of Syros as we wouldn’t get there until about 11:30

20:30 Arrived at Finikas and so far have travelled 3000 nautical miles!!!

26/07/15

09:00 Depart Finikas for Mykinos but would you believe it – spent most of the time in sea fog, using the radar to find other boats around us as only had visibility of 100 metre radius. Great learning curve. Mind you, large passenger ferry barged through a Β½ mile behind us doing 23 knots!!!

13:20 – Arrived Mykinos.

Spent a couple of days here but the place didn’t really grab me. Two days were windy and fortunately I had stayed on the boat as charter boats were coming in to berth in 18-25knots and it was carnage. Lost count of the boats I had to fend off and/or assist.

29/07/15 20:30 Departed Mykinos

Fortunately, when we left only one boat had its chain over ours. Planning to sail overnight and get to Patmos early in the morning and spent the day there enjoying the water and snorkelling.

31/07/15

Left Patmos for Leros and decided to anchor in a quiet and tranquil little harbour of Ormos Plakoudi with it’s one taverna and the beach – that’s it!! So we used them both, staying the night before sailing down to the capital of Lakki. This town has a lot of Italian influences and was a major site during WWII – look up Battle of Leros.

No much here really, even though it is the biggest natural harbour in the Med. Moored at Lakki Marina and Jennifer and I took Rylee to local cafe to listen to Greek music and dancing . We left just before 2:00am and the party went until nearly 4:00am – we could hear it quite plainly on the boat.

Sarah’s birthday and we are going out for dinner – they even booked a room for us. That will be strange, the first night off the boat for 2 Β½ months!!

We plan to spend the next week or so cruising around the islands before heading to Kos to check out of the EU.

Catch you all later

Chris & Jennifer

Church on the hill from small bay at Patmos
Church on the hill from small bay at Patmos
Yet another sunset
Yet another sunset
Peace on the water
Peace on the water
Another shot in Mykinos
Another shot in Mykinos
Windmills in Mykinos
Windmills in Mykinos
Across one of the bays in Mykonis
Across one of the bays in Mykonis
Nice portrait shot
Nice portrait shot
Mykinos laneway and steps leading up to a home
Mykinos laneway and steps leading up to a home
Laneway in Mykinos
Laneway in Mykinos
Mykinos from the boat
Mykinos from the boat
Mykinos
Mykinos
Mykinos
Mykinos
Sunset over Mykinos
Sunset over Mykinos
Typical small Greek fishing boat
Typical small Greek fishing boat
Sea fog rolling in on our way to Mykinos
Sea fog rolling in on our way to Mykinos
Trapani Sicily to Lipari in the Aeolian Islands — July 26, 2015

Trapani Sicily to Lipari in the Aeolian Islands

15/07/15

Departed Trapani on NW corner of Sicily for Lipari, one of the Aolian Islands (think Stromboli) sailed for a little bit but then motored again as the wind was right on the nose.

Went past Palermo with ships coming in and out and plenty of planes also. The local fishing boats don’t have AIS and when you think you can go behind them, they start reversing, Geeze!!1

16/07/15

Passing a couple of islands on our port side until we sail between Lipari and Vulcano – – what a sight!! The water and beaches that can only be reached by boat, and they are everywhere

Got a nice berth after Uri talked them down to only 70 euro a night for two nights and checked out the town. It was a major occasion in the town and a feast for a saint which would last three days. Stalls were being set up all along the main street and we wandered through them checking out the cheap stuff wondering why people would buy it.

Gave the boat a good wash down and then found out the have to ship their water in from Naples every few days – that’s a bit embarrassing.

17/07/15

Decided we would hire a taxi to take us around the island as a bit of a tour and spent 2 hours checking out the sights where pumice was mined until 2003. the lookout where you could see 5 islands and then another where you could see 3 islands.

Had a big lunch and then checked out the old cite, castle and church and went through the museum. What a fascinating place – records and archaeology date civilisation there back to 3000BC

This is another place we have to come back to and get to know it better

Fresco on the ceiling of the church in Lipari
Fresco on the ceiling of the church in Lipari
Frescos on the ceiling in the church of St Bartholomew
Frescos on the ceiling in the church of St Bartholomew
View of the rooftops
View of the rooftops
Amphitheatre  in the castle
Amphitheatre in the castle
A street in the ancient castle in Lipari
A street in the ancient castle in Lipari
Any guesses whose family lives here?
Any guesses whose family lives here?
No Job No Money No Problem
No Job
No Money
No Problem
Stromboli in the distance
Stromboli in the distance
View of a beach on the Lipari tour
View of a beach on the Lipari tour
Island of Volcano
Island of Volcano
Streetscape in Lipari
Streetscape in Lipari
Trapani and the old city of Erise — July 25, 2015

Trapani and the old city of Erise

14/07/15

Trapani & Erise

We anchored in a little corner of this harbour with Uri and about 7 other boats about 150 metres from an old castle on the breakwater, with views of the city and the mountain/hill behind it with a cable car running to the top.

We decided a sightseeing day was needed and o we ferried ourselves ashore and set about walking through the main part of this quaint Italian town. We soon found the main mall running through the middle with some great shops where we all did some browsing.

Our main aim was to ride the funicular up the mountain to see the old township or Erise. Trouble was how to get there – we couldn’t see a taxi anywhere so kept walking until we saw a few buses go by and followed our nose. Sure enough, we came to a stop that gave details of the stops and there was ‘Cablecar’ where a couple of buses stopped at- We caught the first one that came along which took us along the beach and then through the old housing estate which looked pretty bleak.

We finally go to our stop where the cable car started, paid out 9 Euro each and jumped into our cabin. Rylee cracked us up when she stood up at the windows and shrieked every time a car went down the opposite way. Fifteen minutes later we disembarked not knowing what to expect. As we walked through the granite entranceway we were taken back 500 years.

Cobblestones, curved streets, quaint buildings were everywhere. By the time we got there, we were all pretty hungry so after a walk most of the way up the hill when we picked one restaurant to eat. It was only narrow and we went into what was originally build as a 2 story house by a rich nobleman. Our waiter said there was a terrace upstairs and we could have a table there. Before going out there we looked at some of the rooms with their little alcoves and one entertaining room with its beautifully pained ceiling – breathtaking.

Then we went out onto the terrace with 180 degree vista of the magnificent blue Mediterranean. This is a remarkable city!!

Taxi back to the boat, dinner and a quiet night before sailing to Lipari and the Aolian islands tomorrow – except there was a boat that either had out about 100 metres of chain or drifted and just before going to bed, decided to pop my head out and here was this boat only 25m away and no-one onboard. Do you think I wasn’t pissed off!! So I let out a further 20 metres and waited for the owners to come back. At one stage they were lestt than 1 boat length awa on our starboard side. Well I had a go at thm when the returned and they pulled in some anchor. I got up around 2:00am and they were just over 1 boatlength directly in front. If I hadn’t let out some chain, there would have been damage and words spoken.

Painted mural ceiling of mansion cum restaurant in Erise
Painted mural ceiling of mansion cum restaurant in Erise
This fabulous place is for sale in Erise
This fabulous place is for sale in Erise
What a spectacular spot for some portrait shots
What a spectacular spot for some portrait shots
The old formal lounge room of this mansion now turned restaurant
The old formal lounge room of this mansion now turned restaurant
Checking out the bright plates in Erise
Checking out the bright plates in Erise
Street in the old city of Erise
Street in the old city of Erise
Steep incline for the streets in Erise
Steep incline for the streets in Erise
Sarah, Rylee and Adam in the funicular going to the old city of Erise
Sarah, Rylee and Adam in the funicular going to the old city of Erise
Me pose in the mall in Trapani?? Nah!!
Me pose in the mall in Trapani?? Nah!!
Cruising the mall in my fedora
Cruising the mall in my fedora
Small street in Trapami
Small street in Trapami
Lights of the funicular going up to Erise
Lights of the funicular going up to Erise
Old castle on breakwater at Trapani
Old castle on breakwater at Trapani
Taking the trip down the funicular
Taking the trip down the funicular
Sardegna – Trapani Sicily — July 14, 2015

Sardegna – Trapani Sicily

Friday 10/07/15

08:00 – Departed Porto Teulada for Villasimius near Cagliari and the marina we were at way back on 1st June. Wind 030 5-8 knots so motoring.

10:45 Poled out Genoa (1st time effort for this complicated procedure – not what I am used to) and did 4-5knots in 6-7 knots of breeze – this is living.

Great sail all day and arrived 17:30. Spent the next day cleaning up and hosing off all the salt and having a great dinners.

Sunday 12/07/15

08:30 Departed Villasimius for Tripani in Sicily 2155NM

12:15 Sails out wind 10-12knots 150T doing 4.5 knots

13:40 – 24NM completed doing 5 knots in 10-13 knot breeze. 3 sail reaching with the water temp 25.7 – what’s wrong with this????

Great night sailing with the wind swinging a bit but always favourable.

Monday 13/07/15

16:00 Anchored in Trapani Sicily and plan to do some sightseeing in this wonderful old town and maybe even the Funicular. 2315 NM

Photos to come- Internet has been crappy and my Spoanish Lebara SIM wont access the Internet even though there is a credit on it and is enabled for Roaming. You cannot get a single SIM to cover all the Med unless I use my Vodafone Roaming SIM I got in Australia but the charges are terrible. WiFi cafes are not all that easy to find.

We are missing our Sangria and Tapas from Espana but moved on to the fantastic Italian regional cuisine.

Palma – Colonia San Jordi – Porto Teulada Sardinia —

Palma – Colonia San Jordi – Porto Teulada Sardinia

Wednesday 01/07/15

Departed Palma for Colonia San Jordi at 12:00md for about a 6 hour sail along the southern coast of Mallorca. Crew on board – Chris, jennifer, Sarah & Rylee. No wind to start with so motored until 13:20 when a seabreeze kicked in 18-20 knots and we are doing 7-8 knots with main and genoa – nice!!

We started the generator to do some washing but it cut out after about 20 mins – 😦 it’s becoming a real worry.

Anchored in a bay at San Jordi at 18:00 after sailing 45nm.

The weather has turned against us with very strong Easterlies blowing and I will give you one guess where we want to head – unbelievable. So we spent We spent a week anchored here not doing much. Jennifer, Sarah and Rylee hired a car one day to drive to Palma and do some more ‘sightseeing’ (read shopping) I stayed onboard and rehydrated as I haven’t been drinking enough water and wasn’t feeling myself.

.

The restaurants here are pricey and only average and there is a salt farm just near the beach and the stench as you go ashore is nauseating but there are people on the beach everywhere.

Tuesday 07/07/15

17:50 Depart Colonia San Jordi for Sandegna. 1830NM

Sarah has been to the Palma airport to pick up Adam. Weather forecast shows no wind to start and then building the followiung day to 16 knots but with much more (gale force) wind further up but the modelling says it will not effect us – understand what I am leading to?

20:00 – Motor off 1844NM heading 090 doing 3-4 knots with the wind 140 blowing 7.5 knots

23:00 Motor on – wind died

08/07/15

Wind 1 knot – motoring 1916NM

11:30 Wind building Sails out motor off

21:00 – Β½ Genoa, Β½ Main, Β½ Mizzen and still doing 6-7 knots. Wind 16-18 gusting 20’s 30T. Beam seas 2m swell making it a bit unpleasant. 1987Nm

23:00 – Completed 2000Nm for the trip so far

09/07/15

03:35 Completed 200nm and it is blowing shit loads!!!!! Hit 8.1 knots with the wind steady over 20 knots with big swells

06:00 215Nm completed in 36 hours

11:30 – Still sailing. Swells 2-3 metres wind NW 25 knots, boat speed 7-8 knots but just hit 9.8! In the last 24 hours did 150nm – average speed 6.25 knots

115:15 – Arrived at Porto Teulada south west Sardegna. As we rounded the cape the wind hit 35 knots – fortunately I had furled in all the sails 1/3 an hour before.. The waether forecast said there was a Force 9 Gale Warning in the area – tell us about it.

19:45 Marina staff come out to tell us we are not allowed to anchor where we are. People on the beach have complained to Coast Guard and sent them out to tell us (4 boats in total) to move. We asked them where they would like us to go and got the obligatory shrug of the shoulders. Said we were staying until early the next day as there was nowhere else to go and the wind was still blowing too strong and there was nowhere else to go.

2110NM – travelled 280NM